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LS Wiring Harness Relays and Connectors

Page history last edited by Greg 14 years, 3 months ago

LS Wiring Harness Relays and Connectors

 

This is based on the diagrams from LS7power.com, I think that the wiring is the same for all 99-02 f-bodies [at least as far as the c220, 230, 100,101, and 105 connectors / this does not include wiring for traction control, cruise, or A/C.].

 

Connector C100

 

A. This is the power for the odd fuel injectors, route it to IGN 1 15A fuse

B. Not needed

C. Not needed

D. Not needed

E. Not needed

F. Not used

G. Engine control power, route to IGN 3 15A fuse

H. Cooling fan #2 / high speed relay, route to terminal 86 of cooling fan #2 relay

J. Cooling fan #1 / low speed relay, route to terminal 86 of cooling fan #1 relay

K. Not needed

 

Connector C101

 

A. Not needed

B. Power for even coils, route to IGN 2 15A fuse

C. Not needed

D. Output for fuel pump relay, route to terminal 85 of fuel pump relay

E. Computer power, route to IGN 4 15A fuse

F. Not used

G. Constant computer power, route to BAT 1 10A fuse

H. Ground this wire

J. Not used

K. Not needed

 

Connector C105

 

A. Not needed

B. Engine sensor power, route to IGN 5 20A fuse

C. Not needed

D. Not needed

E. Not needed

F. Not needed

G. Tachometer output (this is a 4 cylinder, two pulse per revolution output)

H. Not needed on 1999, note on a 2002 harness connector info sheet that I have it says that this pin is for the EGR valve.

 

Connector C220

 

A. Oil pressure output, if you are going to try using the LS1 oil pressure sender with your gauge then connect this wire to your oil pressure gauge.

B. Not used on an automatic, to Clutch pedal position switch on a 6spd.

C. Power supply to TCC stop lamp switch, not used in 6SPD or if your car already has a TCC stop switch. If your car does not have a stop lamp switch then use this to feed power to feed the switch.

D. To brake torque converter clutch switch. You need a switch that provides +12V power to this wire when the car is running and then cuts power when you press the brake pedal. You may have a cruise control switch that does this already there or you may have to add a switch. If you need a switch you can use a microswitch from radioshack, just make a bracket to hold the switch behind the arm of the brake pedal so that when the pedal is at rest the switch is depressed and when you push the brake pedal down the switch opens and loses contact. If you need to add a switch you can get the power from pin C of connector 220. This switch is not needed in a 6SPD conversion.

E. Ground this wire

F. Not used

G. Not used in an auto, reverse light switch in a 6SPD

H. AUTO: Park neutral position switch, You need a switch that will ground out this wire when the car is in park or neutral. There may already be a switch on the shifter for this or you may have to add one. Same as above you can use a microswitch, except that for this switch you wire it to a ground, not a power source. 6SPD is used for the reverse light switch.

J. Not needed

K. Vehicle speed sensor output from computer, this is a 4000 pulse per mile square wave output, it will work for GM speedometers and some aftermarket speedos, other aftermarket speedos need a direct signal from the VSS

 

Connector C 230

 

A. Not needed

B. To service engine soon light, (- output) Hook this to one side of a 12V light bulb and hook the other side of the bulb to an ignition hot fuse

(IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil, or better yet to the IGN 5 20A fuse)

C. Not used

D. Not needed

E. VATS fuel enable, not needed if you delete the VATS in the computer, or you could keep it and run a VATS bypass box if you want the extra security.

F. Not needed

G. Not needed

H. Not needed

J. Not needed.

K. Serial data output to DLC connector terminal #2

 

Relays

 

This is based on the use of 30A bosch style automotive relays, relays # 1,2, and 3 could be combined into 1 relay if you could find one

with a 80A rating.

 

Relay 1

 

Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), use the wire that powered the original coil

(remove the ballast resistor if it was a pre HEI car)

Terminal 86 To ground

Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage

Terminal 87 to 2 15A fuses(IGN 1 and IGN 2) IGN 1 fuse to pin A of C100 connector, and IGN 2 fuse to pin B of C101 connector.

 

Relay 2

 

Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), use the wire that powered the original

coil (remove the ballast resistor if it was a pre HEI car)

Terminal 86 To ground

Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage

Terminal 87 to 2 15A fuses(IGN 3 and IGN 4) IGN 3 fuse to pin G of C100 connector, and IGN 4 fuse to pin E of C101 connector.

 

Relay 3

 

Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), use the wire that powered the original coil

(remove the ballast resistor if it was a pre HEI car)

Terminal 86 To ground

Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage

Terminal 87 to 1 20A fuse(IGN 5), IGN 5 to pin B of connector C105

 

Relay 4 fuel pump relay

 

Terminal 85 to pin D of connector C101

Terminal 86 To ground

Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage

Terminal 87 to 1 20A fuse then to the fuel pump.

The cooling fans can use two relays or one, it looked like you had two fans so you could hook them up separately and have one fan kick on normally

and then have the second fan kick on only if the engine keeps getting warmer. Or you could hook both fans to fan relay #1 (if they take less than

30A combined or if you get a 40A relay) and have them both turn on at the same time and just ignore the wiring for fan relay #2.

 

Relay 5 cooling fan #1 / slow speed fan

 

Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), use the wire that powered the original coil

(remove the ballast resistor)

Terminal 86 To pin J of connector C100

Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage

Terminal 87 to a 20A fuse or larger, depends on your cooling fan requirements.

 

Relay 6 cooling fan #2 / high speed fan

 

Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), use the wire that powered the original coil

(remove the ballast resistor)

Terminal 86 To pin H of C100 connector

Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage

Terminal 87 to a 20A fuse or larger, depends on your cooling fan requirements

 

The only other wiring to hook up should be the starter wire, take the wire that used to connect to the conversion cars starter solenoid

(should be purple if it’s a GM) and connect it directly to the starter solenoid on the LS1 starter.

Also the DLC link in the car, the power wire for that needs to go to a battery constant fuse, you can either wire it to the stock lighter

fuse in the conversion vehicle (preferred) or connect it to the BAT 1 fuse that supplies power to the computer.

And you need both ground wires in the DLC connector.

 

 

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